Ryan Douglas at the age of three got his first suit custom done by his seamstress Mother opens R. Douglas, a custom clothing store for men in Fresno right off Palm Ave this past month.
He provides made-to-measure suits, worn by UFC star TJ Dillashaw and professional basketball players on the Sacramento Kings. The customer chooses details such as color, fabric, buttons and lining. Douglas and his team takes more than 40 hours on a single suit to get it how the customer likes. He can help coordinate the outfit with a wide selection of shirts, ties and down to the pocket squares. You’ll learn here why you need a bespoke suit, upcoming men’s fashion trends for 2017 and the process of buying a custom suit. Read on.
1. You recently launched R. Douglas in Fresno after the success of the flagship store in Sacramento, how has it been here for you?
RD: As we approach six weeks since opening doors in Fresno, the response has been great. I have enjoyed meeting everyone and assisting them in elevating their sense of style. I also have several family members in Fresno and have enjoyed the time spent with them recently.
2. How long does your custom suit take?
RD: As stylist and designers, we typically spend an hour with our clients during the initial consultation and garment styling process. Following the consultation, we detail and create specific finished garment patterns to accommodate each body measurement and desired fit. The production environment is efficiently automated with our manufacturing facility as to account for each specific detail in our garments. Ten working days are required for a suit fabrication, averaging 3-4 hours per day by our manufacturing team. This would result in a total of 40-50 hours required for a custom suit completion.
3. How many rounds of fittings do you average per session on a customer for a well tailored suit?
RD: With extra care taken during the initial consultation, it is common for a first-time garment fitting (4 to 6 weeks after the measurement consultation) to be exactly what our client desired. On occasion, small adjustments are needed, most commonly relating to garment lengths and/or degree of desired taper in the jacket and slacks.
4. What materials can the client pick for their clothing?
RD: Our current button catalogue gives our clients the ability to choose from more than 200 jacket, pant and vest buttons and more than 150 shirt buttons. The button composition includes such options as apricot nut, shell, resin, and natural horn. Various shapes and carving dimensions are offered to cater to our clients’ exact specifications
5. What are the fashion do’s and don’ts for suit jacket length and sleeves?
RD: The length of jacket should be dependent upon fit preference. For a slimmer silhouette, we typically recommend a front jacket length that is positioned between the joints of the thumb (given a standard arm length and torso / leg proportion). A more traditional cut would dictate a jacket length to be 1 inch longer, usually lining up at the thumbnail. As far as jacket sleeve length, we recommend the jacket sleeve fall to the break in the wrist, offering a clean finish above the hand. When paired with a well-fitted shirt, the jacket sleeve should reveal 1/4 – 1/2” shirt cuff around the wrist.
6. What will be the top 3 trends in Men’s suits for 2017?
RD: For 2017, we anticipate the exaggerated width of lapels and increased height of pocket flaps and cuff sizes. The garment fit will remain tight on the body, with shoulders narrowed and pant widths continuing to tighten around the ankles. The use of fabric blends and raw textures is becoming increasingly popular, as well as bolder patterns and colors.
7. How do you stay up-to date with fashion?
RD: Fashion trends tend to follow culture and lifestyle. California has adapted its fashion to climate and lifestyle, and is somewhat independent in certain regards. However, it is important for us to be aware of European tailoring influences that are revealed at major trade show events, fashion magazines, etc. We closely follow Pitti Uomo each year and are subscribed to magazines such as The Rake and Esquire. Additionally, a number of social media fashion icons keep us up to speed on the latest trend developments.
8. What are must wear colors for Fall, Winter and Summer that every man should have in their closet?
RD: The single most necessary color for a suit is charcoal grey. I believe this should be the first suit a man should invest in. It is functional for any business event, occasion or season. Additionally, we feel that navy is a year-round useful color, black is ideal for special occasions throughout the year, and tan is practical throughout the Spring and Summer seasons. Once the basic colors are a part of the wardrobe, we recommend experimenting with more unique colors and patterns to make your style of greater interest.
9. Who inspires you the most in Men’s fashion?
RD: A few designers and fashion labels come immediately to mind, with regards to influence and inspiration. Tom Ford, Paul Smith, Ted Baker, and Etro have each contributed toward my personal style and influenced the R. Douglas brand.
10. What are your plans for the future? Where do yourself in 5 years’ time?
RD: I am excited about the possibility of continuing to open retail showroom locations throughout the state of California over the next several years. The recent expansion into the Central Valley has been designed to serve as a template for which to expand into the southern part of the state. Five years from now, my goal is to operate 3-4 stores in the state, with the potential to expand throughout the region and US in the years following.
R. Douglas is located on 7775 N. Palm Ave – #102 Fresno, Ca 93711 | Ph: (559) 460-7577